How To Start FPV In 2025

In this guide I will show you how to start FPV in 2025. This will be what I think is by far the best way to start flying FPV drones, and is exactly the way I would start now if I had to start over from scratch. I will show you all the FPV gear I use personally in my videos, along with any other gear I recommend. This guide will be mainly focused on “Cinematic” FPV but some drones can still be used for Freestyle FPV (such as the 5″ or 3″ drones without prop guards). 

Some of the drones will be BNF (Bind And Fly) which means they are already built by the manufacturer, and some will be custom ones that you can build yourself. I will list everything you need to be able to take your first FPV flight, to being able to create high quality FPV videos. Before you fly a drone make sure to check your country’s drone laws and fly within the regulations.

Some of the links to products on my website are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for using my links.

I hope this guide helps you get started in the world of FPV, if you have any questions don’t hesitate to message me on social media and I’ll be happy to help.

Step 1 - Learn On A Simulator First

By far the best and most cost effective way to learn FPV from scratch is to start on a Simulator first. I recommend spending at least 30 hours (preferably closer to 50) on the sim before you do your first real life flight.

This will let you see if you actually like FPV before you go spending lots of money on all the gear. It will also save you lots of money on repairing broken drones from crashing lots (and you will crash 100’s of times while learning) in the beginning.

The 5 simulators I recommend are Uncrashed: FPV Drone Simulator, LiftOff: FPV Drone RacingTRYP FPV: The Drone Racer Simulator, VelociDrone and The Drone Racing League Simulator. All 5 of these sims are great fun and fairly realistic to the real thing. Most work on Windows and MacOS. The ones that don’t work on MacOS – you can install Bootcamp on your MacOS (Intel) device and run all the sims on that – just google “How to install Bootcamp on MacOS“. My favourite sim is Uncrashed, however VelociDrone is the best for slow PC’s.

(If you don’t have a computer/laptop that can run the simulators the 2nd best way to start FPV is with a beginner FPV “Toy” kit. Scroll to the bottom of this page for my recommendations.)

You will need a controller or FPV transmitter to play simulators. I used my PS4 controller to start with before buying a proper FPV transmitter. It is much harder to fly the sims with a PS4 controller rather than a proper FPV transmitter but if that’s what you have it will still work. If you decide to buy an FPV transmitter you need to get one that will be compatible with your future drones, so that’s the next step.

Step 2 - Get A Controller/Transmitter

Now that you’ve decided you love FPV the next step is to decide what controller/transmitter to get. The controller/transmitter is the thing you hold in your hands to control the drone, it sends signals wirelessly to the receiver that is installed in the drone. 

The first thing to decide is what radio control (R/C) link you should get. The controller and the receiver in the drone need to be using the same protocol as different brands and controllers use different protocols and therefore won’t work with one another. The only 2 options I would consider are ELRS and TBS Crossfire. I used to use TBS Crossfire but after 3 years of using it with zero issues I decided to swap to ELRS to save money and because the antennas are smaller. They are both great – but whichever one you go for just know that you are basically locking yourself into that ecosystem, unless you decide to get a new controller or external module for your controller with the new R/C link.

For people who are just starting out and haven’t already chosen which R/C link to use I would recommend ELRS 2.4GHz over Crossfire as it’s open source so the hardware is cheaper than Crossfire, and more things are in stock as many different brands make ELRS rather than just one brand making Crossfire. Nowadays ELRS is just as good as Crossfire and just as easy to setup.

My favourite controller was the TBS Tango 2 Pro when I was using Crossfire as it’s one of the smallest and has folding sticks, which makes a big difference when packing it in your backpack to hike up mountains.

However, the controller I use now I’ve moved to ELRS is the Radiomaster Pocket which I installed the Radiomaster AG01 metal gimbals in it. It’s a great controller and as size is such a big priority for me it’s the only real option.

My 2nd (or backup) controller is the Radiomaster Boxer Crush. This is a bigger controller than the pocket but it has full size gimbals and is definitely the best feeling controller. When I don’t need to save space in my backpack this is my favourite controller to use. It feels so smooth to fly with – probably because it comes with the upgraded AG01 gimbals as stock, but you can also get the standard Boxer without the upgraded gimbals which is much cheaper.

The Radiomaster TX16S is also a good choice but I find it too big so don’t use it anymore, and the Radiomaster Boxer has the same size gimbals so I use that instead.

I would recommend you buy the ELRS 2.4GHz options of these controllers as you won’t need an external module for ELRS. If you want to use Crossfire with the TX16S, Boxer & Pocket you will need to buy the right size Crossfire external module (micro size for TX16S & Boxer, and nano size for the Pocket). If you want to use Crossfire without an external module then you should get the TBS Tango 2 (Pro for folding sticks). For all the Radiomaster controllers you will need to buy the right batteries for them as they don’t come with any. Other good ELRS options are the Radiomaster Zorro and iFlight Commando. 

Now, connect your controller to your simulator and make sure you have at least 30 hours of practice before any real life FPV flights.

Radiomaster Pocket ELRS 2.4GHz

Radiomaster Pocket Crush ELRS 2.4GHz

Radiomaster Pocket AG01 Nano CNC Hall Gimbals

Radiomaster Boxer ELRS 2.4GHz
Radiomaster Boxer Crush ELRS 2.4GHz
Radiomaster Boxer MAX ELRS 2.4GHz

Radiomaster TX16S ELRS 2.4GHz

Radiomaster TX16S MAX ELRS 2.4GHz

Radiomaster Zorro ELRS 2.4GHz

iFlight Commando 8 ELRS 2.4GHz

Battery For Radiomaster Pocket

Battery For Radiomaster TX16S & Boxer

 TBS Tango 2 Pro 

TBS Tango 2

TBS Crossfire Micro TX V2 Module (for Boxer & TX16S)

TBS Crossfire Nano TX Module (for Pocket)

Step 3 - Choose Your Goggles & Video System

This is where you decide which goggles and video system you want to use. On the front of an FPV drone is a small camera which sends the video feed from the camera, in almost real time (a few milliseconds latency), through the video transmitter to the goggles you wear on your head. This is how you see where you’re flying. The goggles need to match with the video transmitter (VTX) so you will need to get the correct VTX depending on which goggles you choose.

There are basically 2 different systems – analog and digital. Analog looks like something you’d see on a super old box tv with lots of static, noise and breakup, however it is much cheaper than digital and has better latency. Digital is much better quality being HD, however comes at a steeper price tag.

I use digital so that’s what I’ll recommend. There are 3 main digital systems at the moment – DJI, Walksnail & HDZero. I use DJI with the DJI FPV Goggles V2 with a Lumenier AXII HD 2 Patch & Stubby Antenna Combo. They are awesome – they fit great, have good sized lenses/screens, and you can fly out for kilometres and they have great signal penetration through various objects like trees and buildings. You can even fly analog drones if you get some adapters.

However, DJI also have newer versions compared to what I use. They have the DJI Goggles Integra, DJI Goggles 2, DJI Goggles 3, DJI Goggles N3 – these are newer versions of the now discontinued DJI FPV Goggles V2 that I use, and most are lighter, smaller and provide even better video quality with high quality recording. If I was starting out now, I would most likely choose one of the newer options over the older goggles especially as the older goggles are no longer in stock anywhere. It all depends on how much you want to spend on your goggles. With DJI you need to do some research and check which DJI goggles are compatible with which DJI VTX and camera system because some newer versions aren’t compatible with some older versions. DJI seem to like to lock people out of their systems by making newer products not compatible with older products so you have to upgrade everything and spend more money, this could be a good reason to choose Walksnail over DJI. Whichever DJI goggles and VTX/camera you choose I would advise you to stick to it and if you get multiple drones in the future make sure they all have the same VTX/camera.

Just like the transmitter and receiver, you need to get goggles and video transmitters (VTX) that are compatible with each other. If you’re buying a BNF or are building the drone yourself you need to get the right video system for the goggles you have, for example DJI FPV Goggles V2 with Caddx Vista, or DJI Goggles 2 with DJI 03 Air Unit, or DJI Goggles 3 with DJI 04 Air Unit Pro.

If you don’t want DJI then Walksnail could be a good choice over DJI as the image quality isn’t far behind DJI and the price of Walksnail gear is less than DJI. They also have smaller and lighter VTX/Camera options than DJI so better suited for micro drones (although DJI do have the 04 Air Unit (Lite)).

The other digital option is HDZero, I would say HDZero is good for people who want to do drone racing and have as little latency as possible and want the better image quality compared to analog however HDZero image quality isn’t as good as the other digital FPV systems.

There’s one last option that shouldn’t be overlooked and that is analog. Analog was used for many years before digital came out and some people still CHOOSE to use it over digital. It has the benefits of being much much cheaper, smaller, lighter, better latency, and some people still prefer it for long range FPV as it is much easier to predict when the video feed is going to drop out and therefore you can change your flight path before it happens to avoid it, if you do lose video reception, analog comes back instantly when you regain connection instead of a 2-3 second delay with digital, which could be the difference between losing your quad in the mountains or not, but as a beginner this isn’t something you should be thinking about yet.

I use the DJI FPV Goggles V2 with the Caddx Vistas with DJI Camera/Nebula Pro Camera/Nebula Pro Nano Camera, however if you choose the newer versions of the goggles such as the DJI Goggles 2 or 3 then also get the newer versions of the VTX/camera such as the DJI 03 or 04 Air Unit.

 

Old DJI System (That I Use)

DJI FPV Goggles V2

Lumenier AXII HD 2 Patch & Stubby Antenna Combo

Ethix Goggle Strap For DJI FPV Goggles V2

Comfy Foam For DJI FPV Goggles V2
Spare Battery For DJI FPV Goggles V2

Caddx Vista – DJI Camera

Caddx Vista – Nebula Pro Camera
Caddx Vista – Nebula Pro Nano Camera



Walksnail

Walksnail Goggles X
Walksnail Goggles L
Walksnail Moonlight Kit
Walksnail Avatar HD Pro Kit
Walksnail Avatar HD V2 Kit

Newer DJI System

DJI Goggles 3

DJI Goggles N3

DJI Goggles 2

DJI Goggles Integra

Spare Battery For DJI Goggles 2

DJI O4 Air Unit Pro

DJI O4 Air Unit (Lite)

DJI O3 Air Unit

Step 4 - Choose Your Drone

The most exciting part! Choosing what drone to get.

First thing to decide is if you want to build the drone yourself or get a BNF (Bind And Fly – this means the drone has already been built by the manufacturer). I would personally recommend getting a BNF drone for your first drone as it will mean you get in the sky quicker and don’t have the pain of figuring out how all the parts go together and troubleshooting when things go wrong. You will most likely have to learn how to build and troubleshoot your drones eventually (unless you have so much money you can just buy a new drone when you break them haha), but getting a BNF is the quickest way to get in the air.

Next you need to decide what kind of filming you want to be doing. Do you want to be filming people, do you want to be filming landscapes, etc. If you want to fly close to people you should get a 3.5″ or smaller drone with propeller guards. If you aren’t flying near people and want to film landscapes, fly fast to keep up with cars, fly freestyle, or just want loads of power then you’d be better with a 5″ without propeller guards (or 7″ for long range, however I wouldn’t get a 7″ for your first drone). If you don’t want to carry an action camera and you’re happy with the video quality from the FPV camera such as the DJI 03/04 Air Unit, then I would actually recommend getting a 3″/3.5″ drone over a 5″ as they fly extremely similar to a 5″ and are much safer as they don’t weigh nearly as much as a 5″, they are also cheaper and so are the batteries. If this is your first FPV drone and you’ve been practising in the sim I would say a 3″/3.5″ without propeller guards would be ideal. If I started again from scratch and I didn’t want to carry a GoPro I would definitely get a 3″/3.5″ for my first FPV drone, and if I wanted to carry a GoPro I would get a 5″.

2″ to 3.5″ (with prop guards) = best for smooth “cinematic” flying close to people, 3.5″ can carry a GoPro but feels heavy, not as good for freestyle, slow speed, not good at flying medium/long distances.

3.5″ (without prop guards) = great for freestyle, great for “cinematic”, cheaper than 5″, ok at flying medium/long distances, ok speed, carrying a GoPro not recommended, not as good for flying close to people. 

5″ = the standard, great for freestyle, great for “cinematic”, great speed, good at flying medium/long distances, can carry a GoPro and still fly great, more expensive than smaller drones, not good for flying close to people.

7″ = (not recommended for a beginner) great for long range FPV, great for “cinematic”, extremely fast speed, can carry a GoPro and still fly great, not good at freestyle, most expensive, dangerous for flying close to people.

Choose between the options below, or choose multiple:

5" BNF Version - Option 1

iFlight Nazgul Evoque F5

(Choose options: 6S (bigger battery, more power, longer flight times) + Deadcat (means no propellers in the video footage, if you don’t mind about that you can get the X frame version instead of DC frame versionELRS 2.4GHz OR TBS Crossfire OR PNP (whichever protocol your controller is using, PNP if you want to solder in your own receiver or will be using DJI RC) + whichever video system you have chosen from step 3 to go with your goggles + Pre-installed GPS if available.)

Propellers – Ethix S5 Light Grey Cinematic

Battery (x2-12) – CNHL Black Series 1300mAh 6S

GoPro Mount – TITAN XL5/DC5/Nazgul5/SL5/SL5-E/Nazgul Evoque F5

5" BNF Version - Option 2

GEPRC Mark5

(Choose options: 6S (bigger battery, more power, longer flight times) + Deadcat (means no propellers in the video footage, if you don’t mind about that you can get the X frame version instead of DC frame version) + ELRS 2.4GHz OR TBS Crossfire OR PNP (whichever protocol your controller is using, PNP if you want to solder in your own receiver or will be using DJI RC) + whichever video system you have chosen from step 3 to go with your goggles + Pre-installed GPS if available.)

5" BNF Version - Option 3

AOS 5

(Choose options: 6S (bigger battery, more power, longer flight times) + ELRS 2.4GHz OR TBS Crossfire OR PNP (whichever protocol your controller is using, PNP if you want to solder in your own receiver or will be using DJI RC) + whichever video system you have chosen from step 3 to go with your goggles + Pre-installed GPS if available.)

5" BNF Version - Option 4

Speedybee Master 5

(Choose options: 6S (bigger battery, more power, longer flight times) + ELRS 2.4Ghz OR TBS Crossfire OR PNP (whichever protocol your controller is using, PNP if you want to solder in your own receiver or will be using DJI RC) + whichever video system you have chosen from step 3 to go with your goggles + Pre-installed GPS if available.)

5" Build Your Own Version

Custom Built ImpulseRC Apex DC 5"

Frame – ImpulseRC Apex DC 5″ (I prefer DC “Deadcat” version)

FC & ESC – T-Motor F7 HD + F55A Pro II Stack
Motors – EMAX ECO II 2306 1700KV
VTX & Camera – Whichever you chose in step 3 make sure to purchase a video system that matches your goggles.
 
Receiver – ELRS 2.4Ghz (Needs to match your controller, you either chose ELRS or TBS Crossfire.)
Receiver – TBS Crossfire Nano SE (Needs to match your controller, you either chose TBS Crossfire or ELRS.)
Propellers – Ethix S5 Light Grey Cinematic
GPS – Matek GPS M10Q-5883 or M8Q-5883
GPS Mate – VIFLY GPS-Mate External GPS Power Module
Antenna – TrueRC Matchstick 5.8Ghz – LHCP, RP-SMA, Regular
U.FL to RP-SMA Adapter – TBS Unify Pro 5G8 Pigtail (U.FL) Adapter (RP-SMA)

Battery (x2-12) – 1300mAh 6S

Battery (x2-12) – 1350mAh 6S

Battery (x2-12) – 1400mAh 6S

Battery (x2-12) – 1500mAh 6S

GoPro Mount For Apex

Backup Parts If Things Are Out Of Stock

FC & ESC

Motors – ~1800kV for 6S, ~2500kV for 4S

3.5" (without prop guards) BNF Version

AOS 3.5 V5

(Choose options: 4S ELRS 2.4GHz OR TBS Crossfire OR PNP (whichever protocol your controller is using, PNP if you want to solder in your own receiver or will be using DJI RC) whichever video system you have chosen from step 3 to go with your goggles.)

BNF

Frame Only

Propellers – HQProp T3.5 x 2.5 x 3

Battery (x2-12) – 4S 500mAh – 850mAh

XT30 to XT60 Adapter (for XT30 Batteries)

3.5" (with prop guards) BNF Version

GepRC CineLog35

(Choose options: 6S (bigger battery, more power, longer flight times) ELRS 2.4GHz OR TBS Crossfire OR PNP (whichever protocol your controller is using, PNP if you want to solder in your own receiver or will be using DJI RC) whichever video system you have chosen from step 3 to go with your goggles.)

Propellers – HQProp Duct-T90MMX3 For Cinewhoop

Battery (x2-12) – GNB 1100mAh 6S 60C LiHV (XT30)

Battery (x2-12) – GNB 1550mAh 6S 60C LiHV (XT60)

XT30 to XT60 Adapter (for XT30 Batteries)

Step 5 - Get All The Other Gear You Need

The last part is to get all the final bits of gear you’ll need and any other nice to have gear. Here’s a list of other gear I recommend:

Battery Charger – you’ll need it to charge drone batteries. The one I use has 2 outputs to charge 2 batteries at once. Make sure to do thorough research on how to charge FPV batteries as they can be very dangerous if you do not do it safely. NEVER ever leave FPV batteries unattended while charging!

Parallel Charging Board – these let you charge more batteries together so are good to get if you have more than 2 batteries. Again, parallel charging can be very dangerous so research how to do it safely.

Battery Voltage Checker – checks your battery voltage which is useful in the field to know which batteries are charged, and useful before charging to check voltage of each cell.

Hex, Nut & Screw Drivers – need these to put together and take apart the drone and also put the propellers on the drone.

All-Purpose 24 Bit Driver Kit – lots of driver bits that’s very useful to have.

Ethix Multi-Purpose Prop Tool – really usefull 4-in-1 driver.

GoPro 11, 12, 13 – the cameras I use to record all my drone videos. They are mounted on top of the drone.

Reelsteady Go (Hypersmooth Pro) – the software I use to stabilise GoPro footage.

Micro SD Card For GoPro – don’t usually come with GoPro so need to get separately. 

ND Filters For GoPro – lets you set the correct shutter speed so you get nice motion blur.

SD Card Holder – to store up to 10 micro sd cards.

Torvol Battery Bag – to carry your batteries around in.

Transmitter Glove – to keep your hands warm when flying in cold temperatures.

Soldering Iron – you’ll need this if you build your own drone or for any electrical repairs you may need to do.

Conformal Coating For Waterproofing Electronics – I put this on all my drones to give them extra protection against the rainy weather of England.

VIFLY Shortsaver 2 Smart Smoke Stopper – must have if you’re building a drone so you don’t blow or melt expensive electronics from short circuits.

3D Printer – must have for building your own drone as it makes things so much easier being able to print your own drone parts. If not, you’ll have to find someone with a printer to help you out. (Find FPV drone parts on Thingiverse.)

Battery Charger – HOTA D6 Pro

XT60 Parallel Charging Board

XT30 Parallel Charging Board
Battery Voltage Checker – ISDT BatteryGO BG-8S
Hex Driver Set
Nut Driver Set
All-Purpose 24 Bit Driver Kit
Ethix Multi-Purpose Prop Tool
Conformal Coating For Waterproofing Electronics
3D Printer – Creality Ender 3 V2
GoPro 13

GoPro 12

GoPro 11

Stabilise GoPro Footage – Reelsteady Go (Hypersmooth Pro)
Micro SD Card For GoPro
GoPro 9/10/11 ND Filters
SD Card Holder
Torvol Battery Bag
Transmitter Glove
Best Soldering Iron – Hakko FX-888D
 Portable Soldering Iron
VIFLY Shortsaver 2 Smart Smoke Stopper

Beginner Bundles

DJI Avata 1 or 2

The simplest kit for beginners with the least amount of setup possible. Also has lots of useful features for beginners such as emergency brake button and downward sensors for easy landing. Camera quality is not as good as GoPro but still very good. I would get the DJI FPV Remote Controller 2 or 3 (depending on which version you get) with this as it’s better than the motion controller.

DJI Avata 2

DJI FPV Remote Controller 3

DJI Avata

DJI FPV Remote Controller 2

Beginner FPV "Toy" Kit

These beginner kits are best for someone who wants to learn FPV without using a simulator, for as cheap as possible. I would class them more as toys. You will most likely grow out of these very quickly and want something bigger and better. But they are a great way to get started in FPV as they come with everything you need in one kit.

EMAX EZ Pilot Pro Beginner FPV Drone Bundle

EMAX Tinyhawk 3 Beginner FPV Drone Bundle
 BetaFPV Cetus X FPV Drone Starter Kit
BetaFPV Cetus Pro FPV Drone Starter Kit
BetaFPV Cetus FPV Drone Starter Kit

Step 6 - Practise Flying

The last part is to practise, practise, practise. Now you’ve got 30 – 50 hours in the sim it’s time to go take your first real life FPV flight. Hopefully you’ve also been practising landing (and disarming) in the sim as you’re going to need to land smoothly rather than crash and hit the reset button now. For your first flights I highly recommend finding a large open place such as a big field with no other people around (the larger the space the better). Make sure there are no obstacles you could hit while flying, for example power lines. It’s good practice to make sure any new drones you get will actually disarm when you hit the switch before you put the props on and fly. So now you know that if anything goes wrong you can just disarm the drone and it will fall out the sky rather than fly off at 100mph. After all that sim practise you should have a good level of drone control so get that drone armed and in the air and do your very first real life FPV flight. Keep an eye on your battery voltage and make sure to land when the voltage is at 3.5V per cell for a LiPo (14V for 4S, 21V for 6S) so that you don’t damage your batteries. Now you just need to fly more, get more stick time in, and practise new flying skills to improve. Congrats on getting into FPV – hopefully this guide helped you.

If you have any questions or need any help, I’d be more than happy to help – just message me on Instagram or fill out the contact form below. Happy flying!

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